this build tested me in more ways than 1.... being my 8th build of this year so far ( stirrer ) I am a little exhausted, so the brain was tested on how to do this build.
it is a matte grey with a gloss black, detailed design with fluoro yellow.... very tricky to work out but... as you can see, i did.
I used all the tricks in my bag and even made new ones.
Matte grey is a PITA to work on... nothing sticks!!
Once I had the grey on.... oh missed a step... i matte blacked all the windows and head/tail lights first, usually do them last but was trying a new trick. then masked them off before spraying the grey... moving on... so i couldn't do white backed decals for the side design.. they just peeled.. actually, fell off. with decal setter, they melted and bubbled. don't get that but moved on.....
I used real white vinyl cut out to the shape i needed, applied, using my hand butane soldering iron with the hot air attachment (mini heat gun, just like real vinyl application)
Then printed decals on clear backed paper, applied ok... had some minor splitting on the front later when they dried but i had already applied the vinyl, so it would make more of a mess to remove and re do... not that noticeable i don't think... now you will look for it lol
then cut yellow fluoro vinyl, which is micro thin and tricky to work with on real cars, let alone scale... that was a fun experience (not).. on the plus side tho, i did wrap the mirrors like a real car, used my mini heat gun (soldering iron as per above) and it worked easier than a 1:1

some things i couldn't cut quite so small, like the 'aussie driver search' for the bonnet and tailgate, so that was an ALPS job.... so far, i have used all but 2 of my decal methods, which are really really last resorts.
I also made the front ford badge with chrome so it's shiny like a real 1
real vinyl on the windscreen sunstrip, real vinyl on the window numbers and nickname... was a big job in my books, but to the average observer, doesn't look like it was a big job but trust me... it was!!
I've now finished 8 builds this year so far but the 9th is THE BIGGEST trickster of them all so far... expect to see that soon... it's used all my methods and then some!
on another note... I reckon I have enough decal experience to be somewhat of an advanced user, so i would like to share some help for others who want to do their own decals.
dr decal and mr hyde make all kinds of decal paper, including no spray inkjet paper.
I recently bought some paper from them in various formats, for the ALPS and inkjet... their stuff, is THE best!!
it's VERY forgiving and is not brittle or hard to work with... well when i say hard to work with, it's super thin and contours like nothing else, a little mr setter/softer and you can hardly see there is a decal once dry. but being super thin, it rolls and tangles on itself very easily if you don't slide it off the backing straight or against the model. but.. like i said, it's very forgiving, you can slide it back onto the backing if you haven't fully removed it and it fixes itself most of the time, if it doesn't or you have taken it all the way off, it's not brittle so you can work with it and use an xacto or tweezers and dig at it to flip and seperate it form itself.. VERY forgiving. i have yet to damage 1 beyond usable.... and you can see how many decals i do

highly recommend them if anyone is

or does, make their own decals.
this is in no way a paid advertisement and i am in no way associated with Dr decal and Mr Hyde
https://drdecalmrhyde.com.au/
They sell on ebay too